BEACHES AND SITES AROUND WESTPUNT

 

These directions are from our house on Playa Kalki in Westpunt. If you are staying here, at the Lodge, All West or Marazul, it’s pretty easy to figure them out. If you are staying elsewhere on the island, check a map to get your bearings. Westpunt is at the far west end of the island. Divers, it’s not sacrilegious to get out of the water on occasion you know.

If you take a left from the house, a third of a mile down the street there is a parking lot on the left with stairs that lead down to Playa Kalki and Ocean Encounters West (OEW) Dive Shop. The staff is fun & they teach all the PADI courses. The beach is very nice and this is Sunshine’s favorite shore dive in Curacao, Alice in Wonderland. David’s favorite is Playa Largu at San Juan. Dive site link: http://www.curacao-actief.com/index.php?id=721 

OEW also rents kayaks and paddle boats. We have a list of the gear, air and boat dives (our favorites are Watamula and Redhio) at the house. There is food available at the beach and you can (sometimes) rent beach chairs.

The Lodge Kura Hulanda is above the beach. The Lodge has two restaurants. Both serve excellent meals, upscale with matching prices. Request to eat on the terrace for the view but ask for both menus as they are different. You can also schedule a massage at the Lodge. As you look out at the ocean there is a cliff along the right side of the bay, this point is the most western edge of the island. Kayaking past this point can be rough and the currents unknown. The structures across from the Lodge are greenhouses. It was a failed experiment that started with the thought that if strawberries, tomatoes and cucumbers could be grown here, they could be grown anywhere. They were and they were delicious. But… water is very expensive and the greenhouses needed to be air conditioned at night for better growing conditions. I believe that Jacob Gelt Dekker is building a solar farm next to the Lodge and will be operating the greenhouses the “correct way” – his way.

After the parking lot and the hotel, the road will turn into a dirt road. If you are biking or jogging (maybe by that time, walking), you can take a right and make your way through the neighborhood and circle back to the house. The first left after you take this right will take you to the top of a hill near the sonar/tracking globes. If you go straight from the hotel, maybe a mile, there is a right that will take you to the other side of that hill and the lighthouse. It does not look like a traditional NE lighthouse. Ask us for directions to other trails to follow; David has cleared technical mountain bike routes as well as a couple of other trails to hike about 1 ½ hour walk each.

By continuing straight (bearing left when the road forks) you can follow the signs to Watamula, 2 miles from house.  The north side of the island has rougher seas and is not done as a shore dive. OEW goes to this site and their new plane wreck nearby, by boat. At Watamula if you walk to the left, you will see some painted trees. There is a very small private little cove hidden away, Playa Gibi. If you look across the beach from the cliff you may see some dark brown birds on the face of the opposite cliff, this is the nesting area of the Brown Boobys. If you walk right from the Watamula sign, to the right of the large boulder painted as the Curacao flag, there is a sink hole with water known as the eye of the island. To the right about 10 to 20 yards, I have a small pile of rocks where you will hear air spouting from small holes; this is “the breath of Curacao”.

Please lock your car and make a showing of taking your purses and cameras with you. Do not get out of the car and lock anything away in the trunk. While you personally will not be accosted, the “bad teeners” may take advantage and break into a car if anything of value is left in plain sight and sometimes in the trunk.

Back on the dirt road after Watamula, take a left. This will now lead you east. You will come to an inlet. Most cars will not have the clearance to drive much farther. By bike, you could possibly ride the length of the island; David has ridden from the airport. By mountain bike standards it’s an easy ride except for the thorny cactus & flat tires. Do not remove any thorns until you get back to the house. Most probably the farthest you would go is Boca Tabla. Before Shete Boca at one point on the ride there is a right up a hill (you’ll see the water towers above you to your left) that will take you past a few houses and out to the road, for a shorter ride (circle, to the house). I can’t explain where to find it but in this area there is a man made water area that fed a local well. Westpunt did not have running water until the 1950s. There are a number of dams/wells in the area.

Shete Boca/Tabla by this route or by car (much easier) on the main road is a nice place to visit. It is our friend Judy’s favorite place on the island. The topography on the north side is totally different. The ground is not volcanic but old coral beds from very long ago. There is a natural bridge, small caves, walking trails and a turtle sanctuary. During the day there is a small entrance fee, 3 guilders. On weekends the locals sell food. Boca Pistol is named because the force of the waves creates a spray that looks like it was shot from a pistol. There are seven (shete) bocas (mouths or bays) in this area and there have been occasions when the waves were high enough to deposit large rocks on the cliff. There are paths to walk in both directions from the parking lot but you can drive as well. Write your name with the rocks for a souvenir photo and there’s an excellent chance for a close up photo of an iguana here.

About halfway back from the hotel to the house, look up to the hills and you will see our Westpunt lady on her back. From the left you can see her knees, the small rise of her belly, her breasts, barely see her head and then her arm stretched out to the sea. Humor me, you’ll see her.

If you take a right from the house and a right at the ball field, you will come out to the main road. Jaanchie’s is truly local food. There is now an ATM there. At all the ATMs on the island you can get either guilders or dollars. In the past there has been some trouble with stolen info. Please hold your hand over the keypad when you enter your password. If you take a left, it is the fastest route toward Willemstad; about 40 minutes. Boca Tabla is 3 miles from the house and Christoffel Park is a couple of miles down the road at the Landhuis Savonet. This is where you will find more species of flora and fauna than anywhere else on the island including rare cottontail rabbits and the white tailed deer. You can drive in the park, hike or rent bikes. I believe that you can hire a guide. Curacao Actief also takes guided hiking and biking tours through the park. The park offers moonlight hikes, tours to find the elusive white tailed deer, and sunrise hikes. But, they close at 4 PM and lock the gates so I would recommend getting there before 1:00. Entrance is $10 USD per person; a little pricey. Christoffel is 1,400 feet high. The last 50 yards to the top is tough. You’ll need good shoes, not sandals and you’ll be scrambling over some rocks but the view is worth it. The park is on both sides of the road; up the mountain and over by the sea. It’s quite warm in the afternoons, I can’t imagine biking up the mountain side, but by the shore it may not be too bad – bring water to drink.

I would love to tell you there is a shooting range in Wacawa but it’s for the Dutch Military.

Less than 10 miles from the house is the town of Barber. There is a park next to the church with easy hiking trails called Hofi Pastor with an 800 year old Kapok tree; entrance fee of 2 guilders. We have a book of hiking trails with a description of this and other trails on the island.

Across from the church there is a main road that will actually take you toward the beaches. One of the first couple of buildings on the right is where they slaughter and sell goats and chickens. On Sundays there is a market in the morning including live music & the locals sell baked goods, plants, & food. This is a wonderful cultural experience. A half mile or so up the hill (go up the hill) there is a large green building on the right (not the Toko at the bottom of the hill). This is the closest store with a large variety of supplies, they have everything you might need except fresh produce. There is a gas station, bakery & bank in Barber and a BBQ across from the church on Sunday nights.

Continuing on the main road you will see signs for Asencion. It was where they housed the slaves who were sick. There are programs that run on the first Sunday of the month from 10AM to 2PM and the Landhuis is open to tour. Church services are said in Dutch and local artisans sell their goods as well as food. Our neighbor Wim (very tall Dutch man) sells wind chimes made from silverware and marbles. They have a small wandering band to serenade you while you relax. If you are here on the first Sunday, we highly recommend a visit. The crafts are nice including many oil and watercolors, ornaments made from the calabash fruit and a local artist has a birthday calendar with paintings of the island. Be sure to ask him to sign it for you for a gift to your mom for her birthday or Christmas. Check out the flags in front of the building; one waves in one direction and another flaps in the wind in the opposite direction. Really! As you leave the parking lot you’ll see the grave site of the mean landowner, they would not bury him within the property walls. Locals claim he haunts the area and is the reason for the lack of cell phone coverage and accidents in “the clove” where the road splits. He is buried outside the entrance on his stomach with his head up on his hands to keep watch over the Landhuis. At night some still enter their gates backwards closing the gate as they enter to keep out the bad spirits. Hint! When you park, back into the space.

Right before Ascension is Kas di Pal’I Maishi, house of corn. It’s named for the corn stalked roofs and is a typical rural house. It belongs to the ancestors of one of the first freed slaves to be given owned land. It’s a small museum and tours are given. NAfl 3,00 admittance. Right after Ascension the road splits, immediately after it becomes one again there is parking on the north side for a hike to Boca Ascension. For 5 guilders per person you might be able to get a tour from the wife of the great-great-grandson of the original owner. The queen gave his mother waterfront land on her last visit to the island. We have had guests geocaching there.

Still driving east, you will pass a road that merges in from the right. This is the beach road that circles around from Westpunt. The next major town is Tera Cora. There is a gas station here (yes, gas is over $5 a gallon), an ATM, a drug store (Botika), a doctor’s office, and a grocery store, California. They have a little produce and a small meat section, but if you’ve gone this far, another 7 miles or so to Centrum would bring you to a bigger grocery store.

You’ll soon see signs for Restaurant Daniels. I always order the pancakes with bacon and apple cooked in the batter when I go for lunch and highly recommend all the pancakes. 

Almost across from Daniels is a road that leads to St. Willibrordus., Habitat, Daibooi, Porto Marie and the flamingos. It also connects to the road that I refer to as the beach road. Just past the turn is a small building on the right. Many years ago, a young couple was building a chapel on their property. As they were painting the murals on the walls, the wife mentioned that she thought she might be pregnant after many years of trying to conceive and it turned out she was. Afterwards, the chapel became a destination for those who wished to have children. A couple of miles further you’ll find the rotary with the metal iguana near the airport.

From Jaanchie’s if you take a right you will immediately see the small road (behind the house) that leads to the fishing boats and Playa Piskado/Grandi. The fishermen sell fish daily. During the late afternoons it is possible to snorkel or dive with the resident turtles. There are also a few seahorses near the mooring lines of the boats (check out the ropes on the dark orange/red buoy) and a metal statue of King Neptune at around 25 feet. After the church you will see Playa Forti. You can have a drink, jump off the cliff and take some fantastic photos. Our neighbor, Oscar sells fish soup and chicken on Sundays at the fishermen’s huts. Occasionally there is a DJ playing local music (sometimes a bit loudly) on Sunday afternoons.

A couple of miles down this road you’ll see the turn for Playa Knip. A knip is a red cherry like berry. It “kinda” reminds me of a plum with much less fruit around the seed. Landhuis Knip has a slave museum with information on Tula, the leader of the slave revolution and a very small restaurant for lunch. Entrance $3. It is closed on Mondays. Ask for a tour in English. It’s very interesting and you’ll learn more with a guide. The road is one way in so don’t be concerned when you leave by a different road. You will first come to Klein (or little) Knip. It is a sweet little beach. The snorkeling will be better here because of the rocks. I haven’t been on the weekends but it appears that they may sell food. At the end of the road is Knip which also is known as Playa Abou. It is picture perfect. You can jump from the cliff here as well. They sell food and rent chairs here. The bathrooms may cost a couple of guilders. If you were to kayak from behind the house, I would estimate that it is a distance of approx. 2 miles but because of the cliffs and the bay you don’t know that you are there until you are there.

Back on the main road, you’ll go up and down a couple of roller coaster hills. If you look carefully, there is a sign on the right that says “spasm”. Slow down, there is a bump in the road here. Playa Jeremi is the next beach that you will come to. Again it is small but very nice. Lock your car and do not leave any valuables inside even for a short while. Many like to snorkel at Jeremi. Immediately after Jeremi you can take a right that will take you through the (very) small town of Lagun or continue to a stop sign and take a right, Lagun beach will be on your left. Discover Diving dive shop is here and they sell light meals but closed on Mondays. The snorkeling as well as the diving is wonderful here. This is the least expensive dive shop in the area. You can rent gear for $20 a day. This includes one tank of air, additional tanks are $6.00. There is a school of squid that you’ll find quite near shore (check near the small buoy); green morays on both sides of the lagoon, you can often see at least one spotted eagle ray over the sand at the mouth of the bay and usually a turtle or two. There is a small cave to the left. I would suggest snorkeling to the left and not having to fight the current on the way back. They rent chairs on the beach. Peter at Bahia Inn and Diving now has a dive shop on premise as well. I like to go left from the cove on our dives. Bahia Inn has dinner on Thursday nights. We often take divers for a twilight/early evening dive and emerge in time for dinner.

Santa Cruz is the next beach. It is very pretty but the water can be murky so the snorkeling is not very good here.  I’m not sure about facilities, if you can get air from the dive shop or if they are just a water taxi service – which sounds very sketchy to us. They will drop you off for a dive and then return to get you (?). Captain Goodlife will take you out snorkeling or to Playa Pretu, the beach with the black sand and the Blue Room.

At the town of Soto you’ll see signs for Sunset Waters resort. It closed in July 2009. Landhuis Grote Santa Marta is on the right after you make the turn. This beautiful property is also open to the public. There is a working farm and tannery and they sell crafts made by the handicapped. There is also a small cafeteria. It is closed on Sundays.

Further down is the turn for San Juan. The entrance is on private land and will cost 5 guilders a car. There are a number of beaches here. They are all coral so you will need water shoes but almost always completely deserted. The snorkeling is also very good here. We have heard only a couple reports of petty theft at these beaches but if you go on the weekends, there is almost always someone else on the beach. After you turn off the main road and have driven a few minutes, you may think you are not on the right road, relax. After a few more minutes you’ll come to a Landhuis that is being renovated and a man standing by the side, pay him the 5 guilders. As you drive along you are really going to wonder where I am sending you, relax. After a bit of up and downs on the dirt road you will see signs for the 3 beaches. Really. Playa Largu is David’s favorite shore dive. Shon Mosa is Andreas’s favorite; you decide and let us know your opinion. There are no facilities or tanks here. At the last beach, Playa Largo, DO NOT drive down the beach and think you can easily turn around at the end. If you do, be prepared to lug large flat pieces of coral to place under your tires to get you unstuck.

Cas Abou is a development with very grand houses. There is also access to a beach for a fee. The snorkeling is very good here but the restaurant is not as nice as the one at Porto Marie, they charge more to get in; 10 guilders a car ($5.70), and 5 guilders to rent chairs. But, the cost for a tank of air is only 6 dollars. If you side tip the guys at the dive shop, they’ll give you a lift to the cliff to the left and you can plan your dive along the reef and back to the dive shop. You can also get a massage here. On Saturday mornings there is salsa aerobics on the beach – I think it starts at 8AM so that might count out more than a few late sleepers. The main road continues and connects with the road from the airport right before Terra Cora.

Before the main road there is a right to St. Willibrordus. At an intersection, there is a shallow bay where you can see flamingos. Take a left and park on the right. Take a right and the road heads to the shore. If you follow the signs for Coral Estates you’ll come to Habitat hotel and its house reef. The dive is nice but you must buy your air there, you cannot bring it in with you. There isn’t a beach. It is under new ownership and there are plans to create a beach. Nearby, both Daaibooibaai and Port Marie are gorgeous beaches. There is dive shop at Porto Marie and an entrance fee of 3,50 guilders ($2). Port Marie has a double reef to dive and the snorkeling is good. They rent chairs there for 5 guilders, have a shower and have a nice restaurant. I usually order the pannekoekens. Dutch pancakes are thicker than a crepe but much thinner than NE style pancakes. Daibooi is free but there is a very long swim out to the reef for a shore dive.

We have yet to explore the area around St. Michael including Blauwbaai, Vaersenbaai and Bullenbaai.  Our end of the island is called Banda Abou. It means the down side or the West side.

There are bugs on the island of Curacao. I put all of our food that is not sealed in zip lock bags, plastic containers and/or in the fridge. Sometimes there are little gnats at sunrise and dusk. The easiest solution is to wear long pants and shoes. If it’s been raining, there are mosquitoes. We take our wet towels out of the bathroom and dry them on the line or on the porch to discourage the mosquitoes from enjoying the moisture of the bathroom. There are scorpions on the island. Be careful when lifting any large rocks and if you take your shoes off in a rocky or wooded area shake them before you put them back on. I once heard of one being found in a dive bag. We have black lights we give to kids to go out hunting them. The bats, lizards and dragonflies are our friends as they eat many many bugs. It’s amusing to watch a gecko on the wall stalking and grabbing a moth or other bug. There are some restaurants that have mosquitoes at night. Play it safe and wear long pants. Here at the house you can sit and/or eat on the terrace or the deck. There is almost always a constant breeze that will keep the little monsters away. And of course there is also bug spray. The Aloe Farm sells one with both aloe and deet that does not smell too bad. It’s for sale at the Lodge and other hotels as well. The goats you’ll see every where are owned by the locals. You might notice a cut in one of there ears or some kind of marking. They are let out in the morning and return each night, on a similar schedule to the parakeets you’ll see flocking back to their nests. You’ll mainly see the wild donkeys on the uninhabited north coast.

There is also something I’ll call the P factor. If you can see or smell your urine, you are dehydrated. Sometimes it’s a bother, but try to drink as much water as you can. If you get leg cramps or headaches, I told you so.

There is a lot to do and see on the island and we have a few brochures. Please let me know if you need any information. During the winter there are a lot of cruise ships. The busiest days in town are Wednesdays and Fridays. If possible I would try not to plan anything for those days. Also, many people from Willemstad come out to Banda Bou on the weekends so the beaches here are usually busy on Saturday and Sunday. I can see a schedule emerging… But, On Sundays, most things close in town by 2PM.

In Westpunt, you can eat here at Sol Food on Friday, Saturday, & Sunday. We like to think of ourselves as friends with food. There’s not much to do in Westpunt so it’s fun to hang out and talk to other travelers and divers. And, we have pizza. The hotel is expensive but very nice. Try to eat on the terrace but ask to see both menus as they are different. Jaanchie’s serves local food; most of it is served as stew; iguana, goat, and chicken. They also have grilled fish and (dry) pork chops. At night, wear long pants, there are a lot of mosquitoes. Jaanchie himself is a one man show. Don’t be in a rush, it may take a while. Think of it as going for the experience. Rancho Sobrino’s is pretty basic but we have heard the restaurant at Playa Forti is a little iffy. The Chinese Restaurant across from Jaanchie’s is an experience in ordering but I think it’s more of a place to go for a cold beer and maybe dominos. The people of Curacao eat a lot of French Fries and they load them with ketchup and mayonnaise and my guess is that they might be fried in animal lard for more flavor. On Sundays mornings (only) there are 2 houses near the ball field where they make and sell bread for a guilder apiece. They are wonderful if you can get them while they are warm. Every night sometime between 6 and 8PM there is a van that goes beep beep beeping down the street. It then turns around and stops at a lot of houses to sell them rolls or a sticky bun of sorts. They cost a couple of guilders. We sell loaves of our sweet bread for $10. You can save on breakfast with bread and coffee. On Sundays our neighbor, Oscar sells food down by the bay, usually soups or stews of sorts. You can eat at the market on Sunday mornings in Barber and a BBQ behind the bank Sunday nights. After noon the locals sell food on Sundays at Boca Tabla. On Thursday nights, Bahia Inn in Lagun has a BBQ night one week and a Krioyo (local) night on alternate weeks for 33 guilders; you need to make reservations before Wednesday. Call Peter at 864-1000. We sometimes plan a night dive (in Lagun) to end around 7:30 and timed for dinner. You can get lunch at Discover Diving in Lagun. There is a restaurant and butterfly garden a little before the turn off to St. Willibrordus called, go figure, the Butterfly Garden. They serve vegetarian, local food and fun smoothies and are now open on Friday night and Saturday during the day, so 7 days/nights a week. They have music on Thursday nights and Sunday afternoons. Almost directly across from the entrance to Cas Abou is E’Lanternu restaurant. There is another restaurant on the hill behind the church in Soto, Villa Monte but I haven’t any info. All the beaches serve lunch or at least snacks and you can get food at the opened landhuises. Two, Daniels and Dokterstuin are now restaurants. Dokterstuin serves local food at a decent price Tues. through Sun. 10AM to 4PM. Knip and Santa Marta serve lunch. There are small snack shacks with Chinese food everywhere. In Willemstad they sell loempias – giant spring rolls, my favorites are at Wa On, on Winston Churchill Weg and the Alaska Snack just East of Punda. Bella Italia behind Bloempot Mall in the Zuikertuintje Mall has homemade gelato ice cream, yummmmmmy. I can give you directions.

Church at St. Peters in Westpunt is at 7PM on Friday & Saturday, 10AM on Sunday. It’s Catholic. Sunday mass in Lagun is at 8:00 AM. They do a lot of singing and mass lasts well over an hour. If you’d like to check out a local dance step, Marzulka, there are lessons on Tuesday nights at the community center. On Sunday mornings at 8AM they have salsa aerobics at Cas Abou beach and maybe Sunday afternoons (?). There is a neighbor, Jerry, www.yuanablou.com  who has a boat and takes people out snorkeling, fishing or water skiing. His phone number is 524-7619. The local PADI dive shop on the street is Ocean Encounters West, www.oceanencounterswest.com (phone number 864-0102) very convenient. You can rent gear and air and they have 2 tank morning boat dives and one tank in the afternoon. Most of the sites on the island can be reached as shore dives and are easy. Many locations have dive shops so it’s not necessary to lug the tanks around unless you buy a shore diving plan. You can rent air for ($6 to $9 a tank) at Kalki, Lagun, Cas Abou, Porto Marie, and Habitat and there is the convenience to have lunch during your surface time at each of those sites as well. Eric’s ATV, www.curacao-atv.com (phone number 524-7418) from Willemstad will bring ATVs out to Westpunt for the day and take you around the west end of the island. If you go out with Eric on the Northeast tour, I would suggest going to Hemmingway’s at the Lions Dive Resort (just across the parking lot from Eric’s home base) for a drink afterwards. Why? So you can take a quick swim in the lagoon and then a shower (next to the stairs) to rinse off. The drink is enjoyable as well on the beach. Now you’re presentable to go out around town. We have kayaks and mountain bikes and David now has a (NE standards) challenging MTB trail out by Watamula. We have additional information about the Sea Aquarium/Dolphin Academy, Ostrich and Aloe Farms, Hato Caves and other tourist attractions in town as well as a good map. Please let us know if you have any questions about our apartment, Westpunt or Curacao or if you’d like a guided dive, hike, bike ride, kayak excursion or heck, even a tour of town. We’d like to help you make the most of your holiday on the island. David and Sunshine 

Sol Food @ Curacao Sunshine Getaway

Playa Kalki G 1 A

Westpunt Curacao NA

011-599-9-864-0005

www.curacaosunshine.com

 

OK, by request some in town suggestions; Slave Museum at the Kura Hulanda Hotel, Synagogue, Maritime Museum, Aloe Farm. Ostrich Farm, Welzijn Fish Pedicure Spa, Eric’s ATV tour, Hato Caves, Dinah Veeris’ Herb Garden, boat and people watching by Sint Annabaai and maybe the Sea Aquarium or the Curacao Liquor distillery.

Landhuis Brakkeput Mei Mei (767-1500), Grandbeeuw, Vrendenberg, Daniel (864-8400), Dokterstuin and maybe Brievengat are restaurants. Landhuis Bloemhof (737-5775) and Habaai (462-8896) have art galleries. Landhuis Ascension (864-1950) was used to house the sick slaves and is open on the first Sunday of every month with crafts and local food available. Landhuis Chobolobo (461-3526) houses the liquor distillery. Landhuis Groot Sta Marta is a working farm and has dolls made by the handicap. Landhuis Knip is a museum dedicated to Tula the leader of the slave revolution. It is closed on Mondays. Landhuis Savonet is a part of Christoffel National Park. There are dozens of other landhuises. Some are private homes, some are offices, some are in disrepair and some well, I’m not sure if they are open to the public. Landhuis Jan Theil 747-0756  Landhuis Kortijn 737-5051  Landhuis Rooi Catootje (737-5119) houses the Maduro Bibliotheek en Museum.

Like to dance? OK Mondays at Brakkeput Mei Mei. Tuesdays reggae at Ay Carumba. Wednesdays at Hooks Hut. Thursdays at DeHeeren. Fridays at Asia De Cuba. Saturdays at The Boat at Waaigat. Sundays Hemingway’s and later at Mambo Beach.